Pub Culture

I was quickly plunged straight back into the heart of Irish culture last night as Bill and I went down to the Magpie Inn, a pub in Dalkey, for our customary pre-dinner pint of stout. No sooner had we arrived than Bill ran into some of his acquaintances, who we sat down with to share a drink. My appreciation for Irish socializing and pub culture was all brought back as we sat there and I listened to them talk, and there was some great and entertaining conversation all the way around.

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First, one of Bill's friends, Davy, turns to me and says, "Johnny, is it? Where at in the States are you about?" So I tell him I am from Ohio, and go to school in Pennsylvania. He shakes his head, and asks if its hot there this time of year. I told him that the Irish weather felt good, since it was 95 degrees in Gettysburg the few days before I left. "95!" he says, "That's no proper stout drinking weather! Sure, it must be hard getting a pint down in that kind of weather," and I laugh and tell him I guess it would be pretty hard to drink stout in that heat. He just shakes his head and says "Lord love ya, living in such an inhospitable climate where its too hot to drink stout."

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Later on, as the socializing continued, Bill told a story about Ronnie Drew-- a famous Irish musician and singer, and one of The Dubliners. Now Ronnie Drew who was "fairly too fond of the drink" back in the day, was known around Dublin as having  this problem. He would be seen at pubs throughout the day, starting in the early morning and progressing through the day, most days. Eventually, however, as he got more famous with his music career, he gained control of himself as a public figure, and overcame his habit. He was, for all intents and purposes, "officially off the drink." 

One day, a young man came into a pub for lunch around 11:30, to find Ronnie Drew, sitting at the bar and drinking a double whiskey at that early hour of the day. The young man sits down at the other end of the bar, eyeing him to make sure that it really is Ronnie Drew, and that he really is drinking hard liquor. Eventually, Ronnie Drew looks up from his drink, and the young man gets up the nerve to say "Now Mr. Drew, I thought I had heard you were off the drink?" Without missing a beat, Ronnie Drew looks down at his whiskey, looks up at the young man, and says, "Ach, sure I am, but I find that a double whiskey every now and again helps me to mind my own business. Can I be buying you one sir?" 

At this, there was an uproar of laughter and banging at our table in the pub, as our companions got a kick out of Bill's story-- a story that he got on good authority, according to him. Things went on in a similar fashion for two-pints worth, with Bill and his buddies exchanging humorous stories until Freda called us and told us that dinner was ready. We told Davey and Sean goodbye, and headed home to have our dinner. 

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It seems to be a regular cultural habit of the Irish, especially the men, to go down to the pub for a pint or two before dinner. Then, they all go home to dinner with their wives and families, and depending on the night and the individual, may end up going back to the pub after dinner too! Last night, however, after we had our dinner and then our dessert of peach crumble, I was so exhausted from the travel of the day that I turned in pretty early.

This morning, I woke up early to the sounds magpies screeching outside my window. Now, I've spent the last few hours breakfasting and visiting with Freda. Ruiri and Daniel are off this morning to take their final exams for school, and Bill is still sleeping. I had a very happy reunion with rashers, white pudding, and more tea this morning, and soon, as soon as Bill gets up, I'll be headed down to Dun Laoghaire for a swim in the sea. 

Its good to be back in Ireland!